Embracing the Big ‘n Ugly

By: Grace Kingsbury

As part of the Earth ecosystem, humanity has a responsibility to rethink our relationship with waste and sustainability, especially in our food systems. As we face the realities of the climate crisis, it’s crucial to prioritize sustainable eating. This means fostering a cultural shift that encourages us to think deeply about where our food comes from, who grows or harvests it, and the methods they use. Shockingly, a significant portion of food is wasted before it even reaches restaurants or grocery stores due to minor imperfections. At Sebonac Inlet Oyster Farm, we are working to combat this issue by embracing regenerative practices and ensuring that even our less aesthetically pleasing oysters—the ones deemed unsellable by conventional standards—find a purpose in ecological restoration. By reducing waste and promoting sustainability, we aim to create a food system that benefits both the planet and the people who depend on it. One of our unique contributions to this mission is our partnership with SOAR, an initiative aimed at revitalizing oyster populations and strengthening coastal ecosystems.

The Nature Conservancy’s SOAR Purchase Program buys oysters from farmers and “redirects them to restoration projects” with the goal of “providing an additional income stream for growers and aiding in reef recovery” (The Nature Conservancy, 2025). Created during the COVID-19 pandemic as a result of the restaurant closures triggered by the restrictions, the program has since planted “more than 3.5 million farmed oysters to rebuild 40 acres of oyster reef across 25 restoration sites” (The Nature Conservancy, 2025). The oysters we sell to SOAR are replanted in the Long Island Sound, but the SOAR program extends across the US including areas such as the Gulf of Mexico, Chesapeake Bay, Delaware Bay, and Long Island Sound. These are all regions where overharvesting, pollution, and habitat loss have greatly diminished natural oyster populations.

That’s where our “Big n Uglies” come in.

These oysters—too large or slightly irregular for restaurant menus—may not be marketable in the traditional sense, but they’re perfect candidates for restoration. Through SOAR, we’re able to sell these large and healthy oysters, ensuring that none of our crop goes to waste. This partnership provides us with a reliable income and also allows us to contribute to something much larger: the restoration of oyster reefs in some of the most vulnerable coastal regions in the United States. 

Oyster farming has long been vital to coastal economies, but its environmental significance is just as profound. Oyster reefs serve as natural barriers, reducing coastal erosion, protecting shorelines from storm surges, and providing essential habitats for marine species like fish, crabs, and other invertebrates (Scypher, 2011). Often called “ecosystem engineers,” oysters transform their environment in ways that benefit the broader ecosystem. For instance, a single oyster can filter up to 50 gallons of water per day, removing excess nutrients and sediments from the water column (NOAA, 2022). This filtration combats harmful algal blooms, clears the water, and creates healthier marine environments for other species. This is done through a process called filter feeding, in which oysters (and other bivalves) draw water in to their gills using siphons and mucus coated cilia inside the gills act as a filter, trapping organic debris like algae and plankton and pushing out clean water (Keith, 2014). At Sebonac Inlet, we understand our responsibility to be catalysts of change, recognizing that our oysters not only support our business but also offer immense ecological benefits.

A successful oyster restoration project, such as the Billion Oyster Project in New York Harbor, showcases the powerful impact oyster reef restoration can have on both the environment and the community. Since its inception, the project has reintroduced over 100 million oysters to the harbor, where they have formed reefs that actively filter and clean the water while providing critical habitats for diverse marine life (Billion Oyster Project). These restored reefs also serve as natural barriers, protecting shorelines from erosion and storm surges, and helping to build resilience against climate change. The project’s community-driven approach, which includes educational partnerships with local schools, fosters public engagement and stewardship for marine ecosystems. By participating in efforts like this, we not only contribute to the recovery of vulnerable ecosystems, but also play a role in long-term coastal protection and water quality improvement—an endeavor that aligns with both environmental sustainability and economic resilience.

Through our partnership with SOAR, we scale our mission as a small farm, helping both the environment and our financial viability. Programs like SOAR offer crucial support to oyster farmers by giving us a secondary revenue stream, allowing us to contribute to large-scale environmental restoration and bolstering the infrastructure of the local oyster aquaculture industry. This partnership exemplifies how regenerative farming can balance ecological stewardship with financial sustainability. As we continue to grow, we are proud to play a role in the larger movement toward sustainable seafood and coastal resilience. Even the “Big n Uglies” have a significant role in protecting our shores and ensuring a healthy future for our oceans.

However, does embracing a sustainable future also mean rethinking our rejection of "imperfect" food? Why is so much perfectly good food wasted simply because it doesn't meet aesthetic standards?While we're fortunate to have organizations like SOAR addressing waste, perhaps true sustainability also requires us to let go of our desire to control nature's imperfections and instead embrace its natural diversity. Shouldn’t sustainability include redefining what we consider valuable and worthy in the food we consume? 

A true embrace of sustainable foodways require innovative farming practices, but also a shift in consumer mindset about the food we produce and consume. At Sebonac Inlet Oyster Farm, we are proud to be part of a growing movement that prioritizes regenerative agriculture, environmental restoration, and reducing waste. As we look toward a sustainable future, it’s clear that true progress lies in valuing the inherent potential of all food, regardless of its appearance. I see a world where we embrace a variety of protein, from oysters to insects. By rejecting perfectionism in our food systems and allowing for nature’s diversity, we can create a more sustainable and resilient world for generations to come.

Works Referenced: 

Billion Oyster Project. (n.d.). Billion Oyster Project. Retrieved February 5, 2025, from https://www.billionoysterproject.org/

Can Clams and Oysters Help Clean Up Waterways? (n.d.). Https://Www.Whoi.Edu/. Retrieved February 5, 2025, from https://www.whoi.edu/oceanus/feature/can-clams-and-oysters-help-clean-up-waterways/

Current Contract and Grant Opportunities. (n.d.). Retrieved January 22, 2025, from https://pew.org/43GNTvq

Environmental Benefits. (n.d.). Florida Shellfish Aquaculture Online Resource Guide. Retrieved February 5, 2025, from https://shellfish.ifas.ufl.edu/environmental-benefits/

Filter Feeder—An overview | ScienceDirect Topics. (n.d.). Retrieved February 5, 2025, from https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/earth-and-planetary-sciences/filter-feeder

Filter feeders. (n.d.). Retrieved February 5, 2025, from https://nathistoc.bio.uci.edu/Filter%20feeders.htm

Fisheries NOAA. (2022, February 4). Oyster Reef Habitat | NOAA Fisheries (National). NOAA. https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/national/habitat-conservation/oyster-reef-habitat

Keith, W. J. (n.d.). SCDNR - Oysters and Clams. Retrieved February 5, 2025, from https://www.dnr.sc.gov/marine/pub/seascience/oyster.html

Our Science. (n.d.). The Nature Conservancy. Retrieved January 22, 2025, from https://www.nature.org/en-us/about-us/who-we-are/our-science/

Scyphers, S. B., Powers, S. P., Heck, K. L., & Byron, D. (2011). Oyster Reefs as Natural Breakwaters Mitigate Shoreline Loss and Facilitate Fisheries. PLoS ONE, 6(8), e22396. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0022396

SOAR: Supporting Oyster Aquaculture and Restoration. (n.d.). The Nature Conservancy. Retrieved January 22, 2025, from https://www.nature.org/en-us/what-we-do/our-priorities/provide-food-and-water-sustainably/food-and-water-stories/oyster-covid-relief-restoration/